Extracts from Lieut Henry Rogers Journal while he was on H.M.S. Arethusa.

Friday 11 June 1852 - Received my appointment to the Arethusa at Cork while at Penrose, Cornwall.

Thursday 24 June - Went to Plymouth in the Drake. Took a passage in a small steamer that takes the market people up and down the River Tamar. Pentilly Castle struck me more than any other place I saw from the river.

Saturday 26 June - Came without any incident round the Lands’ End towards Cork.

Sunday 27 June - Joined the Arethusa.

Tuesday 29 June - Afternoon watch, the first for many months.

Friday 23 July 1852 - The first day of our Naval Regatta - sailing boats. The Arethusa won as many prizes as there were races, being the cutter and carrying off first and second barges.

Monday 26 July - Parting calls.

Tuesday 27 July - The boats were hoisted in during the forenoon and at noon we were all ready to for a start, yet I could not believe we were really off until at ½ past twelve the pipe went “up anchor” and we followed the Rodney out of the beautiful Cove of Cork with many regrets and more pleasant reminiscences.

Wednesday 28 July - The signal was made rendezvous to S of Cape Clear, W of Lands End. First watch.

Wednesday 4 August 1852 - Stood into Torbay.

Monday 9 August - Stood into Mounts Bay.

Tuesday 10 August - V strong breezes and squally.

Thursday 12 August - Looked into Torbay.

Friday 13 August - Working down channel with light breeze.

Sunday 22 August - Heard Service read. Our time passes away very quietly in the routine of duty, reading, smoking, playing whist (not on a Sunday) etc. and were it not for the little broils that occasionally disturb our peace on deck, there would be no incident in our life and conversation would flag.

Friday 27 August - The Admiral inspected us, what his opinion was I cannot say as he expressed none, but I do not think he could have been by any means enchanted. Before the 17th of this month we have had a great deal of very thick rainy, windy, unpleasant weather at night, in which I have kept one or two watches that were more unpleasant than anything it has been my lot to go through at sea, always excepting the Mutine, anxiously looking out or trying to do so, for the distance from the flag ship, which only carries one light at her stern. This in thick weather effectively prevents one from seeing whether she is ½ mile off or 100 yards, the glare being extended by the haze so as to render the masts and sails quite invisible. This has caused several small differences of opinion between the Capt. and Officers of the watch. On one occasion the Admiral was lost sight of etc. Since the 17th the weather has been much finer although we have had strong breezes occasionally.

Saturday 28th August - Arrived at Lisbon in the forenoon, the entrance to the river is not very striking, everything being very much burnt up at this season. Having just come from the Emerald Isle where the grass is so beautifully green, I was much struck by the strange appearance of the olives dotted about in some quintas without a blade of grass under them. The Castle of Belina stands out boldly on a small point of land about 3 miles below Lisbon and the Church of the Pillars near it looks as if it were worth seeing. Nearer the town the far famed aqueduct rises far above the trees near it.

Thursday 2 September 1852 - Sailed at 4.30am for Malta.

Saturday 4 September - Passed Gibraltar.

Wednesday 8 September - When the ship was going nearly 10 knots before the wind, steered with ease keeping the same spoke in my hand.

Monday 13 September - On the first watch had a pretty sharp squall from the NNE, at 10 the sky was almost cloudless and stars shining brightly with some sheet lightning, soon after this a bank of cloud gradually rose to leeward and spread over the heavens, with a great deal of beautiful sheet lightning, and occasional flashes of forked. The wind gradually changed from ESE to NNE on which I tacked and took in the light sails, shortly before 12 it struck us with some wind and more rain, lowered topsails and took in mainsail jib, wound up with tremendous rain and hail. (Memo, when there is forked lightening look for squalls.)

Wednesday 15 September - Anchored in Malta Harbour at 9.20pm.

Sunday 19 September - Left soon after 4am for Cephalonia, where we arrived at 11am on the 24th without any incident on the voyage.

Saturday 25 September - Dined with the 30th Regiment who have a very cool and comfortable mess room and were most hospitable. Ice or rather frozen snow collected on the black mountain in winter and stored in caves is a luxury enjoyed here. They have a good billiard room and table put up about 12 months since by our hosts.

Monday 27th September - XXXth dined with us and some XLIth.

Tuesday 28 September - Left Argostoli before noon

Wednesday 29 September - Reached Corfu.

Thursday 21 October 1852 - Inspection by Admiral Dundas.

Monday 25 October - Sailed with the Squadron at 8am for a cruise

Saturday 30 October - The signal to part company made about 11am. We have done much better than I expected both in sailing and exercise, the Phaeton having scarcely beaten us in the former and Arethusa generally first in the latter.

Monday 1 November 1852 - Arrived [Corfu] at 10.30am.

Sunday 7 November - 10 hour watch.

Tuesday 9 November - Modest came with orders to join the admiral at Gibraltar, so we hurried off at 11am.

Sunday 14 November - Hove too off Malta early in the morning and at 7 had a great many boats alongside, some of the Maltese being anxious to present their “little bills” and others to sell a few pounds of tobacco. 9.30 our boats returned and we started for Gibraltar.

Sunday 21 November - Heard Service. The weather has been very fine until today, wind sometimes fair, sometimes foul, with occasional calms. Now, 7pm, we have 3ble reefed main and close reefed fore mizen topsails with reefed courses, under the launch near Alboran Island, and no prospect of the wind abating.

Sunday 28 November - Fine weather, off Malaga, snow capped mountain in sight.

Monday 29 November - Fine breeze, great hopes of getting in.

Tuesday 30 November - 1am, anchored at Gibraltar to our great delight, as the stock was very nearly consumed.

Tuesday 7 December - Admiral Dundas arrived.

Saturday 11 December - Phaeton sailed; going around the Squadron, being cheered by each ship as she passed, going home.

Sunday 12 December - Heard Service on board. Walked to the Hospital where we saw the two patients who have so narrowly escaped from death. One a boy who fell from the Arethusa’s top gallant masthead and escaped with a severe cut across the nose and a few bruises. The other a Marine who fell and rolled near 200ft down a precipitous part of the rock and is doing well, the upper part of his head is very much swollen and the jaw is perhaps broken, but no doubt is entertained of his ultimate recovery.

Saturday 18 December - Poor Evans, naval cadet, died this morning having been in a very dangerous state for some days, the only sign of life he gave was breathing for the last day or two.

Sunday 19 December - Church on board in forenoon after which walked behind poor Evans’ body to the very pretty cemetery near the south end of the Alameda Gardens. Before revisiting it, its remembrance had passed from my mind, but I now recollect having gone there nearly 4 years since and thinking then, as now, that if I had my choice in the selection of my place of burial, or any preference for one place rather than another, this would be the spot; secluded having a gentle slope and shared by orange and lemon trees. Went to the Cathedral in the afternoon.

Tuesday 21 December - Capt S kindly invited me to meet Sidebottom at dinner, but I unfortunately had scarcely a chance of speaking to him.

Saturday 25 December - Our Xmas not a particularly merry one, the lower deck (as is usual in any ship commanded by Capt S) was very prettily decorated and, owing to scarcity of money, was pretty quiet when I took two strangers round at 3pm. One of the men complained of its being such a dry Xmas.

Sunday 26 December - Did not hear service, only one hour’s sleep last night

Monday 27 December - Influenza, Rheumatic fever. Monday 10 January 1853 - Came on shore to Mr Cowell’s hospitable dwelling, where I improve daily.

Tuesday 18 January - Find the wind very keen here.

Saturday 22 January - Packed up and started for the Arethusa, where my anxious messmates received me with due honour, one of them hearing I was lame, had two boys with a crutch each ready to present to me directly I came on deck. This is the way men amuse themselves in the navy.

Tuesday 25 January - Sailed at 9am in a great hurry, the mail having arrived in the morning.

Tuesday 1 February 1853 - Signal made to part company at 4pm. Had a fine breeze on the quarter going ten knots and a half with close reefed topsails, reefed courses, lee clew of mainsail set.

Wednesday 2 February - Shortly before 2am the hands were turned up, the current having set us to leeward, finding the land could not be weathered tacked at 3.20am. The ship went round beautifully and we were allowed to have another nap. At daylight stood between Malta and Gozo and moored in Malta harbour before 8am, not sorry for the change.

Saturday 12 February - Sailed early in the morning for Naples in company with the Sampson Steamer. In the evening the weather became threatening and at 7 we had a heavy squall, in the middle of which the look out man reported “Sampson close under the bows, put the helm down” this was done immediately, but the night was so dark and the rain so heavy there was not time to avoid collision, (the Sampson did not see us until we struck her) and we carried away jib-boom and did her much more serious injury, striking her on the after part of the paddle box, had we struck her elsewhere, the injury would probably have been still more serious.

Wednesday 16 February - Returned to Malta. Wednesday 23 February - Sailed for Naples early in the morning.

Thursday 24 February - Ran through the Straits of Messina and much enjoyed the beautiful scenery. Passed Stromboli at 8pm and saw one or two trifling eruptions. At 9.30 had the beginning of a gale of wind.

Monday 28 February - Anchored at Naples about 1am.

Thursday 3 March 1853 - Sailed for Malta, where we arrived Sunday afternoon, without any further incident than the ship nearly getting on shore not far from Messina, owing to the wind shifting 5 or 6 points when we were tacking and baffling continually.

Monday 7 March - Shifted topmasts, the first time I have seen 3 topmasts shifted together.

Sunday 27 March - Laid on the shelf by rheumatism in the ankle.

Monday 11 April 1853 - Left the Arethusa at 1.30pm for the hospital being worse on the 14th day than the first of being in sick list, indeed the draughts and damp decks of a ship are but poor aids to the skill of the doctor.

Thursday 21 April - Much better. Monday 23 May 1853 - Returned from the hospital to the Arethusa. This morning I was very glad to hear of the release from the dullness of the hospital and now I am almost inclined to regret the want of its calm and quiet.

Tuesday 24 May - Much powder burnt in honour of the Queen’s birthday. Guard and part of first watch, which last was so unusual that I did not sleep much before 2am.

Tuesday 7 June 1853 - In the evening walked to the hospital and had a pleasant chat with Dr Stuart. Whilst there saw the Niger getting up steam, with Blue Peter at the fore and heard the Caradoc had arrived from Marseilles. On reaching Arethusa had just time to change and then unmoor and leave Malta Harbour in tow of Niger. At 9.30 we were out of the harbour, although there was a strong NW wind. Wednesday 8 June - Took up station and about an hour after we were delighted to see the signal to proceed to Cape Matapan [S Greece] and thence to Besika Bay with a fine breeze from the NW.

Friday 10 June - Fleet in sight, after passing Cape Matapan lost the wind.

Saturday 11 June - Squadron came up with us early in the morning and the Albion took us in tow, she being astern of the Inflexible.

Sunday 12 June - The Firebrand came back for us and took us in tow about 5am. Light breezes all day. Heard Service.

Monday 13 June - At 8am cast off and anchored to the N of rest of Squadron, in Besika Bay. Tiger went up a short distance to enquire about coals. No news, rumours that the Turks are very pugnaciously inclined. The country, although rather mild and without any grand features appears very pretty. Near the shore opposite us there is a strip of marshy ground, in which a great number of cattle were roaming about, apparently in very good condition. Beyond this, the ground rises gently into pleasant undulating hills, with a good sprinkling of oak and a few poplar and other trees, much like park scenery. I only saw 3 spots of cultivated land in all this and those of no great extent. Tenedos looks very barren and from the number of windmills, cannot be well supplied with water.

Tuesday 14 June - At 6 the French Admiral anchored in the Ville de Paris and shortly afterwards Caradoc came down from Constantinople, news said to be that the Russians give the Turks another month. French fleet anchored between 6 and 8 in two lines, 8 liners and 4 or 5 steamers.

Friday 17 June - Rose at ¼ before 3am having made our arrangements for a visit to the Turkish Forts about 25 miles from the anchorage the night before. A signal was made on Thursday “5 Comr and 5 sub-officers from each ship may go in the Inflexible tomorrow at 4am”. So we started with a party of ten, two baskets, sketch book and a servant in time to reach the steamer at 4 punctually.

Monday 20 June - At noon heard the firing on the occasion of the Queen’s accession very distinctly although 6 miles distant. Sunday 3 July - Received our papers by the Sanspareil, they are very bellicose.

Sunday 10 July - Caradoc came from Constantinople 5.30pm with a Queen’s messenger. Russians said to have crossed the Pruth. [Occurred July 2.]

Wednesday 3 August 1853 - Captain kindly offered me a week’s leave to see Constantinople. I had just time to get leave from the Admiral before the Tufton steamer left. The passage through the Dardanelles was not nearly as striking as I had expected. At 10.30pm being well into the sea of Marmara retired.

Thursday 4 August - Rose at 6.30am. A cup of coffee served in bed having rendered sleeping any longer out of the question. The country below Stamboul is by no means beautiful, being cultivated and much like an English down in appearance. However, the first view of the minarets in the distance soon attracted our attention, rising over the nearer land, like a ship’s masts or the chimneys of factories, with a beautiful blue sky and sea and most transparent atmosphere instead of the usual smoky accompaniment. The first view of the city that has seen so many changes disappointed some of my companions. I cannot say it did me, on the contrary the seven towers at the extreme left and the dilapidated wall which has bidden defiance to so many foes and now only yields to father time, with its innumerable minarets and domes towering far above it and the houses painted with sober colours, formed a very striking and beautiful view to my eye. The passage up the Bosphorus to Buyukdere was very much admired by all the party and I can safely say I never saw 9 miles of such beautiful country. Hills of every form, at the foot of which we sometimes saw a palace for the Sultan or one of his Pashas, some of them having the lower story marble, the upper wood (painted so as not to spoil their appearance from the water), and beautiful groves of cypress and other trees. The point about ½ way crowned by the janissary towers and the Sultan’s valley are perhaps the most striking objects. The green, white and red tents of the encampment at the foot of the giant’s mountain form a pleasant feature and the beautiful blue sea and clear sky complete the scenery and enabled us to see it to advantage. Landed at Buyukdere and sailed to Pera in a boat owned by a Maltese styling himself Black Sam.

Friday 5 August - After breakfast a party of 18 or 20 having assembled, we took caiques at 10.30am and crossed the Golden Horn (the caiques is a very light boat built of beach, some parts of which are generally covered with beautifully carved wood, nailed on the inside of the boat; in our case rowed by two pairs of sculls and as many brawny arms, the former very light in the blade and balanced by a thick loom. As much care is required in stepping in an out, as in an Oxford skiff, and the slightest movement appears dangerous whilst on the passage, although they are truly safe enough boats, the gunwales being much higher out of the water than our London wherries).

Monday 8 August - Rode to Buyukdere at 10.30am. There are few fine views on the way. Crossed the Bosphorus, landing to the NW of the Giants mountain [Yusa Tepesi] and ascended its steep sides. Rode back in the dark having had a capitally arranged picnic given by Lord Carlisle near the top of the GM whence the view was magnificent over the Bosphorus to the janissary towers, beyond which the minarets and domes of Constantinople appear.

Wednesday 10 August - Rode to Therapia [now Tarabya], Buyukdere and Belgrad returning to Pera at 7pm. Returned the whole way through fertile valleys sometimes clothed with wood; more frequently cultivated, with running water a very great blessing here and one not frequently enjoyed; the lower part of this is called the valley of the sweet waters of Europe.

Thursday 11 August - Visited the dock-yard where the Admin. Superintendent gave us coffee and the Admiral, a jolly looking old Turk, pipes and coffee, they both hoped the English fleet would come up but appeared to think there was little chance of it. A young Armenian, who has lived 5 or 6 years in England and has introduced the English plan of mast making with complete success, showed us his department where they were making masts for an 80 gun ship then building. The knees are of wood that support the beams and look very clumsy, they not having arrived at sufficient perfection in iron-work to copy us in this respect. The main hatchway was of an enormous size, more than twice that of ours, the workmanship was much better than I expected although scarcely equal to ours. The only other place we saw was the blacksmiths forge etc. where they have Nasmith’s hammer and the machinery for rolling out iron bars. The leading hands at the latter are Scotchmen and the work was done speedily and dextrously. They were getting the Bowsprit of the Fredland out when we passed the sheers and I cannot say that their machinery was at all equal to ours. The Sheers are supported by ropes only, without any mast, rendering the angle much greater and the strain on the ropes correspondingly severe. The purchases are worked, each (3 in no) by a treadmill wheel with men walking round inside, round the axle of which the fall is passed two or 3 times. The dockyard was not otherwise remarkable except that each line of battleships has a separate store, into which her contents are taken and refitted when they strip in the winter and when not in commission and that the heaps of dirt sufficiently large in most parts of Constantinople are still larger here. All the authorities were particularly civil to us and most if not all their improvements are copied from Anglo Saxons. On our return packed up and went on board the Austrian packet where the charge was high and the accommodation bad.

Friday 12 August - Passed the Egyptian fleet above Chanak Kalieu at 8.30am, two of the Frigates had weighed and the flag-ship hoisted her topsail yards to the masthead, with the sails furled, preparatory to doing so, as we passed (topsails are generally loosed before hoisting). Reached Besika at 10.30am.

Sunday 21 August - The strong Summer winds have returned fresher than ever. On my return from Constantinople it was fine weather for two or three days and we hoped they were over. Caradoc came down at 10.30pm with a report that the Turks had signed the ultimatum except 3 articles, we have since heard that they have refused to sign it in its present form.

Thursday 8 September 1853 - Sicklist 44. The last two days the wind has been off the land, today the wind came more from the west and south, we shall see whether it will last and what the effect will be on the number of sick, as I hear the other vessels have increased in the same or a greater proportion.

Sunday 11 September - Threatening weather. Sick 33

Monday 12 September - Rain during the night and a great change in the temperature.

Thursday 15 September - Forenoon watch.

Sunday 25 September - 3am Triton arrived from Malta and Marseilles. The Emperor of Russia has refused to agree to the alterations in the note proposed by Turkey. Persian screw steamer came from Constantinople, heard that Turks intend declaring war tomorrow.

Sunday 2 October - Triton came from Constantinople. War will probably be declared on the 4th.

Tuesday 4 October - Caradoc arrived from Constantinople and went on, we hear by her that the declaration of war is in print. [War declared by Turkey on 5 October.] Saturday 22 October - Left Besika Bay or I should say tried to do so. The French fleet started about 3am and managed to get up whilst it was calm or a light wind. The English Squadron started later and the Flagship got about 8 miles above our former anchorage.

Saturday 29 October - Weighed at 6.10am in tow of Niger, when nearly up as far as the remainder of the fleet, being on the European shore of the Dardanelles, cast off and stood across on the port tack and at 2pm, on putting the helm down, she came round far enough to haul the main yard and there stopped. At first I thought the main yard had been hauled too quickly, but seeing the ship motionless without stern or headway, soon found that she was on shore, although there was not the slightest perceptible shock in slipping quietly on a bank when going 5 knots. Finding that moving the men, the head yards being aback, had no effect, laid out a stream anchor on port bow, hove it well taut ....... Niger came alongside and took our upper deck guns in, landed shot, pumped out water and finding all of no avail, laid out shut cable to the Niger (who let go both lower anchors) about midnight and at 2.30 hove it well taut and got to bed at 3am.

Sunday 30 October - Began to heave at 7am and not starting the ship, lightened her again, shot and water as before and main deck guns at 11am. Messenger lashed to cable and taken round capstan and two runners and tackles manned on main deck, also lashed to the sheet cable ...... At 11.30am when the third gun on port side was just out of its carriage, the frigate, to the great delight of all on board, floated. Thus nearly 4000 shot, 50 tons of water, 113 tons 4 cwt of guns, besides the boats were got out by our own men and officers in the space of 21 hours. The only assistance we received being in boats and the Niger to put our guns in and the French laying out their own stream anchor. My first watch 8 to 12.

Monday 31 October - At 5am weighed and were towed up by Niger and Inflexible. Moored about 2 miles below Chanak.

Tuesday 1 November 1853 - Refitting. A report by Austrian steamer that the Russians and Turks have had an engagement. The former attempting to grasp a fort on the Danube were fired on, which incensed them so much that they landed and took the fort.

Friday 4 November - A report that a Russian liner grounded on south bank of Danube and that the Turks expected her and had some other advantages over them. As we have left Besika Bay, I will make a few remarks on our anchorage for the last four months. The combined fleets lay off Besika Bay, English inshore, French outside and an unpleasant place it is even in summer. During the greater part of our stay we had strong north winds from about 10am to about 5 or 6pm, the wind generally falling light about sunset. It being frequently calm during the night and a light land wind blowing the malaria from the adjacent marsh amongst the squadron at other times, having an offensive smell of discarded vegetable matter.

During our four months stay, the wind not having been from the south or west 10 days altogether. The holding ground is firm, the Arethusa having driven twice and some other ships once. Indeed the greatest and almost only convenience, apart from its being close to the entrance to the Dardanelles, is the plentiful supply of good water, which can be easily found during the summer months, being at the north side of the bay and thus sheltered from the prevailing winds. An immense number of merchant vessels take shelter here in bad and work up in fine weather as many as from 200 to 300 having been in sight one day when there had been a long succession of north winds and one from the south sprang up for a couple of days. And after a north wind for some days I counted 21 vessels running before it in 3 hours, chiefly Austrian, French, Greek and Black sea Russian. It is also much used by merchant vessels who arrive too late to enter the Dardanelles (after sunset, as no merchant vessel is allowed to pass the castles at the Dardanelles, Chanak Kalepi, between sunset and sunrise) and wish a safe anchorage. To the south it is protected by a shoal extending from the main land towards Tenedos, over which small vessels can pass, SW by Tenedos, NW and N to some degree by the rabbit islands and Youkeri? point.

The principal features in the scenery are a very extensive plain on the south shore of the Dardanelles gradually narrowing and expanding as it follows the Mindere river until it is lost amongst the abrupt hills, sometimes rocky, sometimes covered with grass and generally covered with pine or brush-wood, principally dwarf oak, ilex, arbutus and juniper; a small plain between the two rocky points that bound Besika Bay with a marsh about ½ a mile in extent either way; an extensive plain commencing 3 or 4 miles south of the above and extending about 4 miles towards Alexandria Troas, level near the sea except a border of sand hills and after 2 miles inshore gradually rising into hills of considerable elevation. South of which plain, the ground rises and dips in rather gentle hills as far as the plain beyond Alexandria Troas in which are the hot salt springs; whence it rises rather abruptly into the distant and rocky range of mountains seen from the Anchorage.

I understand there are some large villages at the foot of the range of hills south of Besika Bay and the Mindere river, which traffic with those above but none of which I have visited. About 6 miles from the ship on the Bunarbashi road are the 40 springs; an immense number of streams of beautiful clear and cool water gushing out from the solid rock (a conglomerate of limestone and hardened clay). This was a favourite walk. The stream fed by these springs is about 3 or 4 ft deep and about 5 wide and runs for some distance nearly parallel to the Mindere river about 2 miles distant from it, having marshy ground bordering it in parts of its course and a few fine willows here and there. Two or three miles from its source part of its waters are conducted by a canal to a well about a mile NE from Besika Bay. After which it runs into Besika Bay supplying plenty of good water to the fleet and forming the small marsh mentioned above, which extends a mile in length after the winter rains.

The remainder of the stream, which we call the Bunarbashi river, tries to force its way towards the Dardanelles and as the plain is nearly level succeeds but indifferently, most of its waters spreading over the surface and forming a marsh many miles in extent in the Mindere plain, parts of which are dangerous especially in winter and in most of which snipe and duck are found as early as September amongst the high reeds, rushes and brush-wood which are scattered over its surface. Its borders dry up considerably in the latter part of the summer and the inhabitants find a very good supply of the reeds used in making the coarse mats of the country and cultivate small patches of it with kidney beans bearing a white flower.

On 16 August it had so far dried up that a road crossed it, by which we returned from Kanguin, by turning occasionally and crossing one or two places 2 or 3 ft deep in mud and water. The tumuli are a very peculiar feature in the scenery of which the highest and most conspicuous is perhaps 50 ft high, mainly in the line from the south end of the bay to Bunarbashi on the top of a ridge so that it forms an excellent landmark to make for from every direction. There can be no doubt that these tumuli, of which there are several in the neighbourhood, are artificial; yet it is probable that advantage was always taken of the ground, thus forming a larger artificial heap on top of the natural one.

Saturday 5 November 1853 - Fury arrived and went on to Constantinople. The Russian liner has dwindled to a trooper. Sunday 6 November - Ardent from Malta. Inflexible to Constantinople. Tuesday 8 November - 10am, Inflexible from Constantinople.

Wednesday 9 November - Trafalgar, Britannia, Sanspareil and Bellerphon went to Constantinople. In unmooring, cable got under the bow of a wreck and gave us much trouble to clear it.

Thursday 10 November - Weighed in company with the Rodney, Firebrand towing us, Retribution and Tiger the Rodney. When 18 or 20 miles E of Gallipoli, the breeze having freshened to half a gale, cast off and ran back about 8 miles when she struck on a hard bank. Furled sails, struck main and mizen topmasts and piped down.

Friday 11 November - At 1am laid out stream cable to Firebrand, at 5.30 laid a 11 in hawser to her, by means of which she hauled our shut cable on board, hung the frigates bower anchor which was sent in the launch and laid both out by seaming and heaving on her Bower cable. During the forenoon Fury having lashed alongside and Retribution having run stream cable, Fury and Retribution went on full power, Arethusa hove on the sheet cable and off she came, the upper deck guns having been put into the Fury and 3 or 400 shot; 50 tons of water pumped out before the start heave.

Saturday 12 November - Reached our appointed berth soon after 10am. Beauties of the Bosphorus not well seen on the way up as it was raining heavily. Saturday 19 November - Went to the Black Sea in the launch.

Saturday 3 December 1853 - A Turkish steamer arrived from the Black Sea that has several shot holes in her hull (this was mentioned by a messmate who probably mistook the waste water pipe for a shot hole, she was not hit). The report is that the Russians came down from Sevastopol to Sinope, when they attacked the Turks by night and destroyed 6 liners and a steamer.

Sunday 4 December - Report has changed into the loss of 6 frigates and a steamer. Retribution left for the Black Sea soon after daylight.

Tuesday 6 December - The reports concerning Turks and Russians have been corrected and added to a little this morning by a courier from the seat of war, Sinope. Two Turkish frigates and some corvettes are said to have been destroyed, the crews from which have landed, and, with the assistance of some Turkish troops, constructed batteries, with which they have sunk one liner (the 3 decker) and placed the others in a very critical position, destroying their boats when they attempted to tow and preventing them from getting out.

Thursday 8 December - Therm 39° at 4am, thick fog until 9.30 then bright sunshine. Fury arrived from Varna.

Friday 9 December - Retribution and Mogador French steamer came back from Sinope with 229 wounded that had been left there under the care of some Greeks, the Turkish population having fled. It was difficult to get concrete information but there is no doubt now that the Russian squadron consisting of three three-decker and three two-deckers and some frigates steamers in the offing succeeded in silencing the batteries, driving all the Turkish vessels on shore, except one that blew up, and destroying all except one of those driven on shore. The loss on the Turkish side cannot be ascertained at present, but from the Captain of one of the frigates having been heard of 50 miles inshore it is hoped that many of them have survived the disaster. The Turkish force, 7 frigates, 3 corvettes and a steamer were anchored in a semi-circle, frigates outside. It is reported that a Russian steamer had a quiet look round the bay of Varna and had completed her survey before the Turkish batteries were manned. Walked to the top of the highest hill I could find where the sea of Marmara and Black Sea can be seen, the top of the giants mountain being far below horizon of the latter and the distant shore of the sea of Marmara appearing over Bougourler. Took a round towards the Black Sea returning by the Genoese castle. It is said that there will be another conference at Vienna.

Saturday 17 December - [HMS] Queen arrived at Constantinople. Wind from west, current running up 2 knots.

Tuesday 20 December - No current perceptible.

Thursday 22 December - The steamers sent to Constantinople in such a hurry yesterday have returned, all is tranquil.

Monday 26 December - Another trip to Stamboul and the bazaar.

Tuesday 27 December - Captain Mends joined vice-Captain Symonds.

Thursday 29 December - Rumours of fleet going to Black Sea.